CHEMISTRY 470 Chemistry of Cosmetics Spring 2005 Instructor: Prof. Rebecca DeVasher Office: Room FL-108, Moench Hall Phone: 877-8541 Email:
[email protected] Class Meeting: MTRF: 4th Hour, 10:50-11:40 a.m. Class Location: D112 Moench Hall Office Hours: anytime, by appointment Class Webpage: http://bama.ua.edu/~devasher The web site will be used to post class materials, make announcements, and provide access to online resources. Texts: Schueller, Randy and Romanowski, Perry, Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, 2nd Ed, Allured Publishing Corporation, 2003. Elsner, Peter and Maibach, Howard I., Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics, Vol. 23, Marcel Dekker, Inc., 2000. Baumann, Leslie, Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice, McGraw-Hill Companies, Inc., 2002. *You are not responsible for purchase of the textbook materials. Objective: This course is an introduction to the terminology, ingredients and vehicles, product development, and product testing of the cosmetics industry. Aspects of this diverse subject matter that will be discussed are in the attached outline. This class is intended to be a survey course on the many facets of cosmetic science and technology. Organic, inorganic, physical and polymer chemistry, emulsion technology, microbiology, dermatology, and toxicology all play a role in cosmetic science. Non-technical colleagues are amazed that most undergraduate technical programs do not include significant coursework in industry specific topics such as INCI nomenclature, emulsion and/or aerosol technology, stability testing and cosmetic product claim substantiation, just to name a few. This course provides a starting point for discussions on all of these topics. Grading: Your grades will be determined by your performance on the following assignments and exams: Midterm Exams (2 x 25%) Short Quizzes Take Home Assignments Final Paper Presentation
50% 10% 10% 20% 10%
100% Assignments: Class Schedule and Reading Assignments: The schedule on the following pages provides the outline of the topics to be discussed in this class. Reading assignments from the primary literature will be assigned as necessary. Please note that this is a highly tentative schedule. Short Quizzes: In some instances the quizzes will serve to ensure that you have read the assigned literature. Some quizzes will be on course notes to reinforce class notes review. The subject of the quiz will be announced prior to the day of the quiz. Take Home Assignments: Assignments will be handed out in class in a reasonable time before they are due. Assignment deadlines will be proportional to the workload associated with the assigned duties (see class schedule for specific information). You are free to consult any literature source to assist you in answering the proposed question(s). You may work in groups of two or three for discussion on a topic, but the work you turn in should be of your own thoughts and ideas. Final Paper: The topic for your paper will be a review of a topic from a generated list that may go into greater detail on a class subject, or give a review of a topic that we do not discuss in-class. Suggested topics will be posted on the class web site in the near future, but you are welcome to suggest your own topics. All topics must be approved by me prior to the date listed in the class schedule. Only one person may write about each topic. The first person to request a topic will have priority. A more detailed description of this assignment will be provided later in the quarter. Presentation: You will prepare a 15-20 minute presentation on the topic you choose for your paper. You will present this topic during the 10th week of class. The presenter will choose a date and a time specified by the instructor. You should sign-up for the date and time you want as soon as you know your schedule. In the event that a presenter needs to change a presentation time, the presenter must find a colleague to switch with him or her. I will not be responsible for assigning/reassigning presentation dates. That is up to you! Each person in the class will critically review your presentation and the comments from the audience will be collected by the instructor to use for grade assignment. Mid-Term Exams: Two 50-minute exams will be given in class on the dates shown in the schedule below during the normal class period. Information to be covered on each exam will be announced in class prior to each exam, but will generally involve all material covered up to the week prior to the exam. The final paper and presentation will serve as the class final. Exams will be closed note/reference unless otherwise noted. Class notes: Detailed outlines of the class notes will be available from the class website prior to class meetings.
Academic Misconduct: All acts of dishonesty in any work (i.e. use of outside aids on exams, etc.) will constitute academic misconduct. The Academic Conduct Disciplinary Policy will be followed in the event of suspected academic misconduct. Disability Accommodation: If you require disability accommodations, please contact the Learning Center. Once initial arrangements have been made with that office, contact the instructor. Tentative Class Schedule Date Week 1 03/07 03/08
03/10
03/11
Week 2 03/14 03/15 03/17 03/18 Week 3 03/21 03/22 03/24 03/25 Week 4 03/28 03/29 03/31 04/01
Topic Orientation, Tools and Terms Review of syllabus, Introduction and Discussion of Course Objectives Role of the Scientist in the Cosmetic Industry Your Primer of Technical Terms Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature INCI Names: Differences between US and EU Regulatory Principles of the Cosmetic Industry Discussion topic: Is your product a drug? Cosmetic Ingredients and Vehicles Surfactant Science Triglycerides: A Primary Ingredient for Making Surfactants Emulsions Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin (polymers, emollients, humectants) Cosmetic Ingredients and Vehicles Silicone Chemistry Common “Scents” Fragrance in Personal Care Products What Every Formulator Needs to Know about Fragrance Creating Colorful Cosmetics Cosmetic Ingredients and Vehicles Polymers in Personal Care Products Aerosols for Apprentices Formulating for “Sensitive Skin” Special Topic: Aging of Polymer-Stabilized Creams
Assignment Assignment #1 handout Review notes on terminology Review notes on nomenclature Assignment #1 Due for Discussion, Review
Short Quiz #1 (Nomenclature) Literature topic Literature reading Review notes
Assignment #2 handout Short Quiz #2 (Literature) Literature topic Deadline to Choose Paper Topic Assignment #2 Due
Mid-Term Examination
04/04-08 Week 5 04/11 04/12 04/14 04/15 Week 6 04/18 04/19 04/21 04/22 Week 7 04/25 04/26 04/28 04/29 Week 8 05/02 05/03 05/05 05/06 Week 9 05/09 05/10 05/12 05/13 Week 10 05/16 05/17 05/19 05/20
SPRING BREAK Product Development Successful Product Development Fundamentals of Formulating Hair Care Products Introduction to Shampoo Thickening Laboratory Batching of Cosmetic Products Product Development Introduction to Sun Protection Products Self Tanners: Formulating with Dihydroxyacetone The Dry Facts about Wet Perspiration Microorganisms and Personal Care Products Product Testing Packaging Concerns for a Formulator Evaluating Raw Materials and Finished Products Fundamentals of Cosmetic Product Safety Testing Substantiating Cosmetic Product Claims Product Testing The Legal Distinction in the United States Between a Cosmetic and a Drug Review of Basic Science of the Epidermis Review of Basic Science of the Dermis Aging Skin, Sensitive Skin, Dry Skin Special Topics Acne and Sebum Moisturizing Agents Antioxidants Bioengineering of the Skin Class Presentations #1 Presenter, #2 Presenter #3 Presenter, #4 Presenter #5 Presenter, #6 Presenter #7 Presenter, Concluding Remarks
--------------Assignment #3 handout Review notes Review notes
Assignment #3 Due Literature Topic
Short Quiz #3
Literature Topic Review notes Review Papers Due Short Quiz #4 Review notes Mid-Term Examination Discussion Topic Discussion Topic Discussion Topic Discussion Topic Prepare for Talks ---------------------------------------------------------
05/23-26
Finals Week
No Final
05/28/05
Commencement
Congratulations RHIT Graduates!
