Tiling and Grouting Instructions Tile & Stone Installation Systems
Reference Guide RGT0611 CUTTING YOUR TILE • When cutting tile, always wear protective eyewear. • Remember to cut all tiles before you begin to apply the mortar. • Try to avoid cuts that result in a tile less than half its original size. • To make straight cuts, score the tile surface with a tile cutter and snap the pieces apart. • For curved or rounded cuts, use tile nippers, a grinder with a diamond blade, or mechanical cutting tools with recommended bits or cut-off wheels. • For circular holes, use a carbide-tipped hole saw or mechanical cutting tools. • When you are finished cutting the tiles, smooth the rough edges with a rubbing stone. (When using mechanical cutting tools, follow recommended safety precautions).
Cutting Your Tile
SETTING YOUR TILE IN 3 EASY STEPS Step 1 – Spread Mortar: • Using a notched trowel, spread mortar while holding the trowel at a 45° angle to the floor or wall surface. • First, use the straight edge of the trowel to apply a thin, even coat to the surface. • Follow immediately with more mortar and “comb” the mortar in one direction, using the notched side of the trowel to achieve an even-setting bed. • Only spread as much material as can be covered with tiles before mortar dries or loses tackiness to the touch. Step 2 – Setting Tile: • Place the first tile at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical control lines, making sure the tile is properly aligned with both chalk lines. • You need to apply adhesive to the back of the tile (back-buttering) when installing 30 x 30 cm (12 x 12 in.) or larger tiles, when the tile is concave underneath or if the tile is wet from using a wet saw. • Place tiles in position and firmly apply pressure to the face of the tile while moving the tile back and forth perpendicular to the trowel ridges. This helps to ensure that the mortar transfers to the back of the tile and that the tile is in an even plane with adjacent tiles. • Check several of the set tiles for adequate mortar coverage by lifting them up. Make sure that at least 80% of the back is covered with adhesive for interior applications and 95% for exterior applications. • Tile spacers, which can ensure straight and even grout lines, should be placed vertically against the face of the tile and not laid flat in the grout joint at the corners. • Keep a damp cloth or sponge nearby for quick cleanup in case you drop mortar or adhesive on the tiles or any other surfaces. Step 3 – As Work Progresses: • Keep the grout joints clear of any setting material. • Grout joints should have at least two-thirds of the tile thickness clear for application of the grouting material. • Avoid disturbing or walking on tiles. • Follow the setting material manufacturer’s directions on curing time before grouting. Curing or drying times will vary due to temperature, humidity and porosity of tile and substrate, in addition to the tile size and the setting material used.
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CEMENT GROUTING IN 3 EASY STEPS Step 1 – Prepping the Area: • Wipe, brush and vacuum the grout joints to ensure that the area is free from standing water, dirt, dust and foreign debris. • Remove the spacers and excess mortar to ensure even tile joints. • Certain types of tiles – such as heavily pitted tiles, unglazed tiles, and tiles that have grooved, rough or indented surfaces – require special preparation before grouting. (The application of a protective coating may be necessary to prevent entrapment of cement particles and permanent staining from color pigments.) Step 2 – Mixing And Applying Grout: • Before applying the grout, moisten the tile surface with a damp cloth or sponge, using a minimal amount of water so that the grout joints remain dry. • Next, holding the float at a 45° angle, force grout into the joints to completely fill the joints with no voids. • Remove excess grout from the tile surface by holding the rubber float at a 90° angle (perpendicular to the tile surface) while moving it across the tile in a diagonal direction. Step 3 – Cleaning Up: • Begin to clean up as soon as the grout begins to firm up and there is no longer a transfer of grout to your finger (usually between 10 to 30 minutes). • Never allow the grout to remain on the tile surface for an extended length of time before completing the initial cleaning. • Use as little water as possible when cleaning grout off the tile surface. Excess water will discolor the grout joints. • When grouting a large area, grout and clean one section at a time rather than applying grout over the entire area. • After each wipe-down, rinse and wring out the sponge so that no excess water stays on the tile surface or grout joint. • Change the rinse water frequently. (Having multiple buckets of clean water at hand will simplify this process.) • Make sure that all tiles are thoroughly cleaned before grout dries. • About an hour later, come back and buff the tiles with a soft clean rag, terry-cloth towel or cheesecloth to remove any remaining haze.
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CAULKING Once the grout is dry, use MAPEI’s Keracaulk ™ S or Keracaulk U colormatched acrylic caulk to fill empty joint areas around molding, sinks, movement joints and more.
Caulk and Seal
SEALING Sealing MAPEI’s Keracolor™ S or Keracolor U is not required, but doing so may be helpful in cleaning the grout and maintaining its life and beauty. A sealer will protect the grout from absorbing water and from many types of stains.
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Services in Mexico 0-1-800-MX-MAPEI (0-1-800-696-2734) Document Number: RGT0611 Edition Date: Ocotober 25, 2011