©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Vietnam Northern Vietnam p99
Hanoi p54
Central Vietnam p152
Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor (Cambodia) p417
Southwest Highlands p287
Southeast Coast p233
Mekong Delta
Ho Chi Minh City p311
p366
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Anna Kaminski, Jessica Lee, Nick Ray, Benedict Walker
PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Vietnam . . . . . 4 Vietnam Map. . . . . . . . . . . 6 Vietnam’s Top 20 . . . . . . . 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 First Time Vietnam. . . . . . 20 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 25 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Vietnam Outdoors . . . . . . 36 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 50
HUYTHOAI/GETTY IMAGES ©
HA GIANG PROVINCE P148
PETER ADAMS/GETTY IMAGES ©
FLOWER HMONG PEOPLE, BAC HA P145
ON THE ROAD HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 NORTHERN VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . . 99 Northeast Vietnam. . . . . 102 Ba Be National Park . . . . . 102 Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Haiphong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . . 120 Mong Cai & the Chinese Border . . . . . . 122 Northwest Vietnam . . . . 127 Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Dien Bien Phu. . . . . . . . . . . 131 Muong Lay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Lai Chau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Sapa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Lao Cai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Ha Giang Province. . . . . . . 148
CENTRAL VIETNAM. . . . . . . . . . 152 North-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Ninh Binh Province . . . . . . 153 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . . 167 South-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ). . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Dong Ha. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Quang Tri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Around Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Bach Ma National Park. . 190
Lang Co Beach. . . . . . . . . . 192 Hai Van Pass & Tunnel. . . . 193 Ba Na Hill Resort . . . . . . . . 193 Danang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 199 Hoi An. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 220 My Son. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . 226 Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
SOUTHEAST COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Quang Ngai. . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Around Quang Ngai. . . . . 236 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 243 Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 245 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 263 Phan Rang & Thap Cham . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Ninh Chu Beach. . . . . . . . 265 Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Phan Thiet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . . 273 Phan Thiet to Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Con Dao Islands. . . . . . . . 279
SOUTHWEST HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 287 Dalat & Around. . . . . . . . . Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . Cat Tien National Park . . . . . . . . . . Lak Lake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
289 298 298 300
Contents UNDERSTAND Buon Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . 301 Around Buon Ma Thuot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Pleiku. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Kon Tum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Around Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . 359 Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Tay Ninh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . .364 Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365
MEKONG DELTA. . . . 366 My Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 Ben Tre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376
Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Soc Trang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Ca Mau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 U-Minh Forest. . . . . . . . . . 387 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 Phu Quoc Island. . . . . . . . 389 Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 Chau Doc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Sam Mountain . . . . . . . . . 409 Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Cao Lanh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
Vietnam Today . . . . . . . . 434
SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . 417
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 478
Siem Reap. . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Temples of Angkor. . . . 426 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . 427
History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 People & Culture . . . . . . 454 Arts & Architecture . . . . 460 Food & Drink. . . . . . . . . . 464 Environment . . . . . . . . . . 470
SURVIVAL GUIDE Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 Health. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498 Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 503 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . 518
BRUNO DE HOGUES/GETTY IMAGES ©
SPECIAL FEATURES
Vietnam Outdoors . . . . . . 36 Eat & Drink Like a Local. . . 43 Hue in 3D. . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Scenes of Vietnam. . . . . 227
Angkor Wat in 3D. . . . . . 428 HOI AN P203
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
28
MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©
Plan Your Trip
Itineraries CHINA MYANMAR (BURMA)
HANOI É
_ #
• Halong Bay #
É
LAOS
÷ Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP # #Hue •
THAILAND
SOUTH CHINA SEA
É
# Hoi An • • My Son #
CAMBODIA
Ù Doc Let Beach # • Nha Trang #
É # Cu Chi • Tunnels # • Ho Chi Minh City
(Saigon)
2 KS From South to North
WEE
Making the most of Vietnam’s spectacular coastline, this route hugs the shore and is bookended by the country’s two greatest cities. You’ll have ample opportunity to indulge in some serious beach time, and be able to hit the cultural sights. Consider taking an internal flight or two to save time.
The adventure begins in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Spend two days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a daytrip
to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels. Then it’s a plane, train or bus trip up the coast to the big brash resort of Nha Trang for a couple of days by the sea. Party people will love the city’s hedonistic bar scene, while spa lovers can indulge in a gooey, blissful session in one of the area’s three mud bath resorts. Nha Trang’s beach is a fine one, but for a less-developed base head up to the largely-undeveloped coastline to the north, where you’ll find Doc Let Beach, or south to the near-infinite sands of Bai Dai beach.
29
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s Halong Bay (p107)
Cultured charmer and culinary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop. This town certainly warrants three days, such is its allure. Spend a couple of days enjoying Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring the town’s temples, pagodas and museums, and feasting on delectable Central Vietnamese cuisine. Consider a motorbike trip around the town’s rural hinterland, or an excursion to the terrific Cham ruins of My Son. Then it’s on to the old imperial capital of Hue for a night to explore its citadel, tombs and pagodas. From here head up to the truly remarkable Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, the world’s greatest
caving region, with towering limestone mountains and cobalt jungle rivers. Next it’s a long journey by road or train towards Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the ocean. Budget for at least a couple of days in Hanoi to sample its evocative Old Quarter and to view the city’s elegant architecture and memorable museums. Make the most of your last day, perhaps munching street food and sampling bia hoi (draught beer).
30
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s • Dong Van #
• #
# Cao Bang •
É
Bac Ha É
É
É
Sapa
CHINA
# Meo Vac •
É
CHINA
• # É É
÷ #
Ba Be National Park
É
VIETNAM • Dien Bien Phu #
Son La É
• #
É
É
_ HANOI # É
É
• #
LAOS
Mai Chau
31
Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself: a land of brooding mountains, overwhelming beauty and a mosaic of ethnic minorities. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels, with light traffic and breathtaking views, though, with a patient attitude, most of the region can be tackled by public transport.
Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to ethnic minority life. Northwest, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical overnight stop is Son La. Continue on for two nights at Dien Bien Phu, a name that resonates with history as it was here that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Tour the military sights and impressive new museum then continue north through stunning scenery up the Tram Ton Pass.
LYNN GAIL/GETTY IMAGES ©
Sapa is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), and an amazing array of minority peoples. Explore the area on two feet or two wheels for around four days before heading to Bac Ha for three nights to experience the best of the region’s markets. Most colourful are the Flower Hmong people. From Bac Ha, move east to Ha Giang province, taking it slowly through stunning scenery and towns including Yen Minh, Dong Van and Meo Vac. Explore remote destinations like the Lung Cu flag tower and the Vuong Palace from Dong Van. Onwards towards the vertiginous Mai Pi Leng Pass and Meo Vac, there’s no public transport (so you’ll need to hire a xe om (motorbike taxi) or car). The route then loops down to the riverside junction town of Bao Lac. Local buses run from Bao Lac to Cao Bang and on to Ba Be National Park. Spend about three nights around Ba Be, staying at local Tay ethnic minority homestays, and exploring the park by trekking or kayaking. From Ba Be travel back to Cao Bang for the trip back south to Hanoi.
Top: Dien Bien Phu (p131) Bottom: Flower Hmong women at Bac Ha Market (p145)
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
WALTER BIBIKOW/GETTY IMAGES ©
3 KS Northern Mountains
WEE
32
This itinerary takes in a lovely offshore island, the nation’s main watersport centre and a waterworld of floating villages. If tropical sunsets and white-sand beaches are high on your agenda it’s probably best not to plan this trip during the southern rainy season. There’s frequent public transport to virtually all the main centres.
HAIMINHDUONG/GETTY IMAGES ©
2 KS Deep South
WEE
After a couple of days enjoying the urban delights and compelling energy of HCMC, head into the Mekong Delta, stopping at Ben Tre to explore canal-side lanes by bike and islands by boat. Then hop on board a cargo ship for a slow, scenic journey to Tra Vinh and take in the town’s colourful pagodas. Next it’s a short trip to Can Tho where it’s worth lingering a couple of days to visit the bustling floating markets, the city museum and a temple or two. Further north, by the Cambodian border, Chau Doc is surrounded by beautiful countryside, begging for two-wheeled trips. Head to Phu Quoc Island for three days of well-earned beachtime on some of Vietnam’s best sandy shores.
The road trip from Dalat down to Mui Ne is one of the nation’s finest, negotiating highland ridges and plunging through valleys and pine forests; it’s ideally done on the back of a motorbike (consider hiring an Easy Rider). You can then rest up by the beach in Mui Ne for two or three days, a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back vibe – or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some crazy kitesurfing or a sailing course.
PHAMSONPHOTO/GETTY IMAGES ©
From Phu Quoc, fly (or bus it) back to HCMC, then head north into the Southcentral Highlands via a night in Cat Tien National Park, home to gibbons, crocodiles and bountiful birdlife. Next up it’s the romantic hill station of Dalat for a tour of its quirky sights, and the opportunity to get stuck into some adventure sports like canyoning, mountain biking or kayaking.
Round the trip off in style with a night in HCMC, perhaps with an ale or two at the Paster Street Brewing Company and dining out somewhere really special like the Racha Room. Top: Dinh Cau Beach, Phu Quoc Island (p389) Bottom: Temple in Tra Vinh (p373)
33
• Dalat # É
Cat Tien ÷ National Park #
CAMBODIA
É
– #
Mui Ne
• #
É
• Chau Doc #
• # É
É
Ben Tre# •
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
É
• #
Can Tho
É
É • #
Phu Quoc
É
É
• #
Tra Vinh
SOUTH CHINA SEA
LAOS
ek
ve r
Ri
on g Tha Khaek
Hai Duong
HANOI
Lang Son
Cha Lo
Ha Tinh
Vinh
Khe Sanh
Hue
Dong Ha
Dong Hoi
Bai Tu Long Bay
PHU THUAN
Halong Bay
Mong Cai
Halong City
Nanning
C H I N A
Gulf of Tonkin
Thanh Hoa
HANG EN CAVE
Cau Treo
Na Meo
HOA BINH
Nam Can
Son La
Yen Bai
Lao Cai
Ha Giang
DONG VAN
Sapa
M
Visit this spectacular cave deep inside Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park on a park-ranger-led hiking and camping trip. (p163)
HANG EN CAVE
SINHO
Tay Trang
Travel by motorbike to the remote mountain village of Sinho, or unravel the intricacies of public transport in northwestern Vietnam. (p135)
SINHO
MYANMAR (BURMA)
Hainan Island (China)
200 km 120 miles
Paracel Islands
Enjoy the serenity in tiny Tam Hai, home to fine beaches, Cham ruins and a whale cemetery (p235)
TAM HAI ISLAND
Take part in a homestay in this beautifully situated fishing village in the Cham Islands, just a short boat ride from the tourist mecca of Hoi An. (p223)
BAI HUONG
Zhanjiang
Use this sleepy Ha Giang town as a hub for trekking, visiting local markets and exploring remote attractions such as Lung Cu and the Vuong Palace. (p150)
DONG VAN
0 0
PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B EATEN TRA C K
Off the Beaten Track: Vietnam
34
Tinh Bien
Vinh Xuong Takeo
PHNOM PENH
Siem Reap
Ca Mau
Mekong Delta
Buon Ma Thuot
Pleiku
Con Dao Islands
Tra Vinh
Vung Tau
Dalat Phan Rang & Thap Cham
Nha Trang
Charter a fishing boat for the ride out to this imposing, 40m-high island lighthouse, which dates from the French era. (p273)
KE GA LIGHTHOUSE
Unwind at this slice of bohemian paradise – bungalows on the beach of your dreams – just an hour or so north of Nha Trang. (p246)
JUNGLE BEACH
JUNGLE BEACH
Tuy Hoa
SOUTH CHINA SEA
Marvel at Ganh Da Dia's fascinating volcanic rock formations, located on a stunning slice of coastline with good beaches and swimming. (p241)
GANH DA DIA
GANH DA DIA
Quy Nhon
TAM HAI ISLAND
Cham Islands
KE GA LIGHTHOUSE
HO CHI MINH CITY Phan (SAIGON) Thiet
Ben Tre
XEO QUYT FOREST
Tay Ninh
Mekong River
Phu Quoc Rach Gia Island
Duong Dong
Tonlé Sap
Pakse
Hoi An
ds
Hop on a boat through silent swamps and enjoy an almost primordial calm among the trees, one of the last natural forests of the region. (p415)
Battambang
CAMBODIA
THAILAND
PHU THUAN BAI HUONG
Danang
a l H i gh l an
XEO QUYT FOREST
Gulf of Thailand
BANGKOK
Enjoy the magnificent oceanic coastline and lack of development at Phu Thuan, which has two great places to stay. (p191)
Savannakhet
Centr
PL A N YO U R TRI P O F F T H E B E AT E N T R A C K
PHU THUAN
Hue
35
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
518
Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight
Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity
Sleeping Sleeping Camping
Eating Eating
Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe
Entertainment
Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information
Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall
Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village
Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Monorail Parking Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Taxi Train station/Railway Tram Underground station Other Transport
Entertainment
Shopping Shopping
Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall
Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef
Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Swamp/Mangrove
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Nick Ray Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and children, Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for the world of television and film, including everything from Tomb Raider to Top Gear. Motorbikes are a part-time passion and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels. Read more about Nick at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/nickjray
Benedict Walker Hanoi Currently hanging by the beach near his Mum, in hometown Newcastle (Australia), Ben is living his dreams, travelling the world for LP. So far, Ben has contributed to Lonley Planet’s Japan, Canada, Florida, Australia and Germany guidebooks. This is his first time writing for the Vietnam team. Otherwise, he’s written and directed a play, toured Australia managing travel for rock stars and is an avid photographer toying with his original craft of filmmaking. He’s an advocate of following your dreams – they can come true. For updates, see www.wordsandjourneys.com. Contributing Authors Andrea Nyugen wrote the Regional Specialities content in the Eat & Drink Like a Local chapter. Andrea is the acclaimed author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen and Asian Tofu. She also publishes Vietworldkitchen.com.
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Iain Stewart Coordinating Writer, Southeast Coast Iain Stewart has been visiting Vietnam since 1991 and has explored virtually every province in the country over the years. This is the fourth edition of Lonely Planet Vietnam he’s contributed to and the third as co-ordinating writer. Travelling the highway between Vung Tau and Tam Hai was some road (and rail) trip, taking in the full spectrum of Vietnam’s stunning coastal scenery and numerous memorable meals. Iain also wrote the Plan and Understand chapters, Survival Guide and the Scenes of Vietnam colour section. Read more about Stewart at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stewpot
Brett Atkinson Central Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City For more than 20 years, Brett has been exploring one of his favourite countries, and his latest Vietnam sojourn spanned street food and history in Hue and Hoi An, the thrilling cave systems of Phong Nha, and the irresistible urban buzz of Ho Chi Minh City. Brett is based in Auckland, New Zealand and has covered more than 50 countries as a guidebook author and travel and food writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for his most recent work and upcoming travels. Brett also wrote the Eat & Drink Like a Local and the Food & Drink chapters. Read more about Brett at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brettatkinson
Anna Kaminski Southwest Highlands, Mekong Delta A big fan of two-wheeled travel, Anna fell hard for the picturesque lanes of the Mekong Delta and the hills of the Southwest Highlands in years past and remains smitten. Given the food, the friendly locals, and ample indigenous culture, there’s little surprise that southern Vietnam remains one of her favourite destinations. Having previously lived in and backpacked all over Southeast Asia, on this occasion Anna explored the Delta’s forgotten corners and motorbiked part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Anna tweets at @ACKaminski.
Jessica Lee Northern Vietnam Jessica first came to Vietnam in the late 90’s and has visited several times since then. This trip saw her road-tripping the winding highways of the northwest, up into the mountains of Ha Giang province, and then down to the bustle of Halong Bay – along the way, drinking more caphe sua da than is probably recommended. When she’s not travelling, Jess lives in the Middle East, and has also contributed to Lonely Planet’s guidebooks to Turkey, Egypt and Cambodia. Read more about Jessica at: OVER MORE PAG E WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/jessicalee1
ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the 13th edition – August 2016 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 872 3 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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