Working with Templates
FD-FI-EXAMPLE
This module instructs the novice how to construct and draw a standard human figure using the body proportion formula of 1:9 (elongation for fashion) and the basics of using existing figure templates to design for fashion.
Correct use of the elongation formula. Correct use of a template to create a linear fashion illustration
>Student will use the instructions in this tutorial to successfully draw fashion figure by using the body formula of elongation, 1:9 >Student will use a figure template given in this tutorial to design/draw a pleasing garment on a figure using line.
Module FD-FI-EXAMPLE
FD-FI-EXAMPLE
Stylisation for Fashion Module 1: X9 FORMULA APPLIED It is time explore aspects of elongating and simplifying the figure for fashion. Although seasoned illustrator's make stylisation look effortless, it does require much practice and skill to achieve. There is a fine line between purposeful exaggeration and bad proportion. Repetition and practice is key to mastering the stylised figure, you will eventually discover your own unique style and "speed drawing" can be added to your repertoire. In time the proportion formula will become ingrained in how you see the figure and stylisation will be attained with ease. Please refer to the text "Fashion Artist", before attempting the TASK for this module, as this is a recommended read. (See Full Bibliography below). This 'simple to understand' guide is an excellent resource for the novice entering this field. Consult Pages, Burke 2010: pages 26-27 which describes the process of elongation in detail. Follow the steps and you should be able to create your own dynamic figures and poses sooner than you think. What is Stylisation Stylisation simply means that certain physical traits of the body are accentuated to enhance the visual appeal of the garment. The leg could be lengthened by 1 unit or 2, thus changing the formula from 1 Head: 8 to 1 Head: 10. This gives the figure more stature. Hair, heads, facial features, hands & feet are stylised into elegant shapes that appear visually sensuous in their simplicity. Stylization for illustrative purposes allows us to cinch waists, chisel jaws, slim thighs, lengthen legs and add cutting edge hair styles to create the perfect model to carry the designed garment beautifully. Starting your Fashion Figure You will need: >A3 paper - (Start with a large paper such as A3 as opposed to A4, it is much easier to be free and expressive) >Pencils - 2B to 8B (Grip the pencil on it's side and not the way you would hold it to write, as this enables wider wrist movements ) >Ball Point Pens- (Practise your figures in pen as well, since not being able to erase encourages proper planning and deliberate mark) >Trace Paper - (Once you are happy with your figures, you can use them as basic templates when designing a range, over time you can build up a personal library of these "Stock Figures" in different poses and angles) >Ruler >Magazines >Visual Journal
Burke,S. Fashion Artist Drawing Techniques to Portfolio Presentation. Burke Publishing: 2010 http://fashionfiguredrawing.com/ accessed on 02-04-2011 http://wn.com/otiscollege?upload_time=all_time&orderby=viewCount accessed on 02-04-2011
1 X 9 Formula Elongation The true female figure measures seven to eight head lengths in height, while the fashion figure measures nine to ten head lengths. In fashion drawing you must retain the basic proportions of the human form from head to crotch, only adding extra length to the legs to give your drawings a dramatic stylised effect and your designs more dynamic appeal. Generally the female figure has a smaller waist and rounded hip, with smaller shoulder - width. The eyebrows are delicately shaped, hands and feet are petite. Male figure are stockily built, with broad shoulders, square hips and larger hands and feet. Strong jaw lines and lower set eyebrows give a more masculine look. Line of Symmetry/ Balance Line When rendering a fashion figure or template, you need to ensure the balance of your figure, this ensures that figure does not appear to be falling over, floating or lopsided. If you keep in mind that your balance line acts as the centre of gravity and symmetry which stabilizes your figure pose. The balance line is dependant on the position of the feet of the figure and determined by the centre of gravity of your chosen fashion pose. A good rule to follow would be to have your balance line as a vertical line from the floor leading up to the neck of your figure. Always bear in mind that the balance shifts between the feet as the figure moves from side to side, much like your own weight when you are standing and balancing from one foot to the other. To understand this, grab a full length mirror and watch what happens when you lean on one foot and move to the other. Notice what happens to your hip, pelvis, shoulder line and knees as you change pose and shift your weight . While drawing your fashion illustration, remember that the waist is one third down from the top of the figure. It is very important to show this aspect of the figure, which will add to the elegance of your figure. The waist falls in between the pelvic box and the upper torso shape, and should have a nice inward curve over these two structures of the body. You should always measure your figures in head widths in order to ensure the correct proportions and placements.
Lets get started Plan the page (Refer to Video Tutorial: "Designing with Templates" that accompanies this Module) >Carefully place a mark on your page where you want the top of the head of your fashion figure to sit, and another mark where you want the toes to finish. Be careful to leave some breathing space above and below these points so that the figure is away form the edges of the page and is centered vertically. (Refer to Fig 1 on the next page) >Plan the proportion Divide the space between these lines into eight equal sections. Each one of these sections equals one head length with the body broken into: - Head - Shoulders - Chest - Base of rib cage - Waist line - Hip line - Knee level - Ankles Tips: 1. Rule a horizontal line across the shoulder level 1 ½ head lengths wide. 2. Rule another line across the hip level 1 ¼ head lengths wide. 3. Rule a line across the waist line ¾ head lengths wide 4. Rule a line across the knee level 2/3 head lengths wide 5. Draw the figure contour by connecting the points marked 6.The correct proportion for the width of female hips and shoulders is approximately two times the length of the head. >Body Shapes Draw the mass of the body using simplified geometric shapes. Head - egg shaped Shoulders – wedges Neck – cylinder Upper and lower torsos - tapered rectangles Arms and legs – cylinders Hands and feet - wedge shaped Joints - circles. >Flesh out the figure Flesh out the figure by adding bone and muscle details much the same as when rendering the traditional figure. Bear in mind when doing this that the waist, wrists and thighs are allowed to be much slimmer than traditional figures. You can also exaggerate features, for example an elongated neck. It is a good idea to stylize your figures in relation to the garments worn. Ask yourself the question, is the garment design being shown off in its best possible light and manner on this particular figure, as at the end of the day it is really the clothes that matter the most when completing a fashion illustration.
FD-FI-EXAMPLE
Practice your craft Please do spend time on this module as it does require practice and effort on your part, to learn the x9 formula and apply it successfully. Once you have mastered the ability to create correctly stylized figures, then work on poses and bringing a bit of your unique flair or signature to your drawings. Your confidence will grow, the more figures you produce. It is easy to become frustrated with the technicalities of drawing, when all you want to do is express your creativity. Think back to when you first began learning how to drive, all you wanted was to get from one place to another and become and independent being, but then realised you had to learn about gear shifts, clutch, breaks, steering etc. You were required to coordinate all these tasks while remaining alert and watching other traffic/ signs. Yet once you have driven for a year all these once difficult tasks have become as effortless as breathing, you don't even have to concentrate on each individual gear change like you did at first. Drawing is no different and like any other craft/art you must work at is continuously in order to succeed. Have a look at the examples on the next page, to see the stages of planning the stylized form. TEMPLATES > Using tracing paper sheets you may design/draw over these templates (often referred to as stock figures or croquis). Refer to Video Tutorial: "Designing with Templates" >Start your own library of stock figures, that way you will always have a starting point for new projects. >Have a range of figures with front and back views (to show back detail), varying arm and leg positions (in order to show a range of garment types, flared skirts, short dresses, pants etc). >Have static (standing still) and dynamic (moving) poses to show different attitudes and movement/flow.
www.designersnexus.com (Accessed on 18-05-11) Burke,S. Fashion Artist Drawing Techniques to Portfolio Presentation. Burke Publishing:2010
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